The origins mezcál are dating back to XVI century, but use of the maguey has a history of over 9000 years.
The term “mezcal” derives from the Náhuatl language, specifically the word “mexcalli,” which is a combination of “metl” (maguey, a type of agave) and “ixcalli” (cooked). In the Mesoamerican past, the roasted maguey was a part of meals. Evidence indicates that maguey has been in use for over 9000 years, serving as food, a source of fibers for textiles and footwear, and even a material for constructing lightweight structures. Its spikes were repurposed as nails and needles for rituals, and today it continues to be utilized in traditional medicine.
Due to its versatility, the ancient inhabitants of Mesoamerica held maguey in high regard, even attributing a goddess named Mayahuel to it.
During colonial times, records show a wide array of fermented beverages that predate contact between indigenous people and Europeans. Pulque, tesgüino, and pozol were integral to significant religious ceremonies, accessible only to priests and nobility.
Theories surrounding mezcál distillation
Three theories exist about the origins of distilled beverages in Mesoamerica:
1. The first theory suggests that distillation began during the Spanish Conquest in the 16th century. The Spaniards brought copper, a material used by Arabs for obtaining essences and known in Europe for producing distilled products. Upon encountering maguey and its fermented beverages during their conquest, the Spaniards decided to distill it for higher alcohol content.
2. The second theory proposes that distillation was introduced to Mesoamerica by Filipino individuals arriving from Manila during the 16th century. Filipino sailors had been distilling coconut water to produce vodka. The Filipino method, utilizing materials like wood and clay, facilitated easy adaptation and larger-scale production.
3. The third theory asserts that distillation was known before the arrival of the Spaniards, a claim supported by archaeological findings. Evidence indicates distillation as early as 1500 BC, with local techniques differing from those brought by the Spaniards and Filipinos.
Regardless of its origin, distillation gained popularity in the 17th century. Different cities produced their own distilled beverages using local maguey and various materials such as wood, clay, and metal implements. This resulted in each region of Mexico developing unique brands of distilled beverages through distinct methods and instruments.
In that era, mezcál was akin to vodka or plant-based wine. Over time, the terms “vodka” and “wine” faded away, leaving only the word “mezcál.”
Rise of the mezcál industry
In the 18th century, mezcál production transitioned into an industry. During New Spain and the Spanish Colony, mezcál consumption was banned due to concerns about public health and royal interests. Ironically, this prohibition aimed to encourage the import of alcoholic beverages from Europe.
Despite the prohibition, small farms and families continued to produce mezcál clandestinely.
Origins of mezcál: background
Mexico boasts approximately 200 agave species, but only 12 to 15 are used in mezcál production. Each variety of mezcál is linked to a specific agave species and a rural region.
The agave used for mezcál belongs to the amaryllis family, characterized by its long, fibrous, lance-shaped bluish-green leaves. The central part, or “piña,” formed by the stem and leaf base, is utilized for making mezcál. The plant matures over seven to ten years, though cultivation cycles differ across regions. According to the Official Mexican Standard for Alcoholic Beverages – Mezcál – Specifications, mezcál is distilled and rectified from musts (or juices) directly extracted from the sugars of mature agave heads. These heads are first cooked and then subjected to alcoholic fermentation.
Mezcál possesses an original aroma and flavor, appearing colorless or slightly yellowish when rested, aged, or blended with approved additives without aging.
The mezcál industry traces its origins to the 16th century, gaining significant momentum during the Mexican Revolution. However, its progress was slow, with artisanal production remaining illegal until recent years. Nevertheless, efforts have been made to legitimize and support the industry, as evidenced by the establishment of standards, a regulatory council, and industry associations.
Types and categories of mezcál
According to the established standard, mezcál falls into two types based on the percentage of agave-derived carbohydrates used in its production:
Type I: 100% Agave Mezcál. This product is distilled and rectified from musts directly prepared from the sugars of mature agave heads, which are hydrolyzed or cooked and fermented with yeast. It can be young, rested, aged, or sweetened.
Type II: Mezcál. This product is distilled and rectified from musts to which up to 20% of other carbohydrates are added as per relevant legal provisions.
Categories of mezcál
Mezcál is categorized based on post-distillation characteristics into three types:
– Mezcál Añejo (Aged): Can be sweetened and undergoes at least one year of maturation in white oak or oak barrels.
– Mezcál Joven (Young): Obtained through distillation and rectification of musts directly extracted from mature agave heads, fermented with yeast.
– Mezcál Reposado (Rested): Can be sweetened and rests for a minimum of 2 months in white oak or oak barrels for stabilization.
The transformation process
Mezcál production encompasses five stages:
1. Cooking: Agave cooking is performed in underground ovens, vertical masonry ovens, hydrolyzers, or autoclaves. This process hydrolyzes starches into glucose and fructose. The cooked piñas are known as mezcál.
2. Grinding: Methods include hand maceration, milling in a “tahona,” or using mechanical shredders. The resulting juice is called “mosto,” and the fibrous residue is “bagazo.”
3. Fermentation: Takes place in wooden vats, pits, or steel tanks, converting sugars to alcohol over 1-3 days.
4. Distillation: Uses clay pots, copper alembics, or stainless steel stills to separate alcohol by boiling point. The result is “mezcál de primera destilación.”
5. Rectification: Similar to distillation, the process increases alcohol content in mezcál.
Mezcál: a denomination of origin
Mezcál enjoys a denomination of origin encompassing specified territories in Mexican states, including Durango, Guanajuato, Guerrero, Oaxaca, San Luis Potosí, Tamaulipas, and Zacatecas.