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The history of corn tortillas

When we talk about the history of corn tortillas, we are discussing a tradition in Mexico where gastronomy and popular culture play equally important roles.

Speaking of the history of corn tortillas means delving into myths and realities that are also part of the history of both ancient and modern Mexico. Corn is one of the essential elements of national gastronomy, and its origins can even be traced in legends and fantastic tales of ancient Mexican civilizations.

“From yellow corn and white corn, their flesh was made; from corn dough, the arms and legs of man were made. Only corn dough entered into the flesh of our forefathers.”

This is an excerpt from the Popol Vuh, the most important book in Mayan culture, where the origin of the universe is narrated. It is one of the texts that reveals how crucial corn was for that and other pre-Hispanic cultures. Some sources suggest that Tlaxcala could be the territory of origin for tortillas since the state’s name comes from the corruption of the term Texcallac, which changed its meaning from “precipice” to “place of tortillas.” However, pinpointing an authentic site as the origin of corn and tortillas is exceedingly complex. When Spanish conquistadors arrived in Mesoamerica, they discovered that the Aztecs made corn bread, which was important in their diets. These products contained starch, proteins, and were a vital source of energy in their diet. They were a prototype of what would later become tortillas.

 

How tortillas are made

The technique for making corn tortillas has evolved over time. In the pre-Hispanic era, the dough was shaped directly with clean hands, so the consistency and appearance were irregular. It wasn’t until the 20th century that tools and equipment were invented to give them a more uniform appearance and increase production. Once New Spain was established, the tortilla became a popular food item. Even during events like the War of Independence and the Mexican Revolution, fighters relied on corn tortillas as the basis of their diet because they were easy to carry and provided enough energy to fight and endure long journeys.

 

An invention that changed the history of corn tortillas

During the 1940s, tortilla production began to be industrialized using a type of corn that could meet the needs of a rapidly growing population. In 1947, Fausto Celorio Mendoza invented a tortilla-making machine that accelerated the distribution of the product and brought it to even remote areas of the country. Today, tortillas are even made with other ingredients such as cactus (nopal), oats, beets, or chard, showcasing the evolution of this vital food. What is undeniable is that tortillas hold a special place on the tables of Mexicans and foreigners who enjoy our cuisine. The history of Mexican cuisine would not be the same without the presence of tortillas, the foundation of many of the most delicious and admired snacks and dishes in our country. Perhaps it would still be delicious, but it wouldn’t have that magical touch that corn tortillas provide.

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